In Europe the favored method of transportation among those who have the time to spare is train travel. Nowhere is this more true than in Italy where the landscape is constantly morphing and evolving from top to bottom. One of the reasons why people keep going back to Italy (myself included) is in part due to the evocative landscape; from the jaw-dropping dolomites in the north, the rolling hills carved by lines of cypresses and vineyards in Tuscany, Perugia and Abruzzo to the scorched, and devastatingly beautiful land of Sicily.
The best way to experience it all is to see it all, and there’s no better method for doing so than with the train. From the slow-moving InterCity to the high speed EuroStar it’s possible to reach every corner and hidden ‘paese belle’ the country has to offer. But be forewarned- personal schedules are not held in high regard, nor are official ones for that matter.
You may have heard the rumors already but the Italian train system is notoriously bad about adhering to a schedule. It’s not uncommon to be marooned on a train in the middle of nowhere from anywhere between 30 to 90 minutes; so always pack a book and never depend on keeping to a tight itinerary.
Even though the trains may be able to ruin your day, you’re never totally at the mercy of their inefficiency because anyone, regardless of nationality, is entitled to a 50% rebate on every InterCity and EuroStar train that runs 90 minutes or more behind schedule. Unfortunately this offer doesn’t extend to the regional and local lines because the company probably quite rightly realizes they’d be playing a losing game. However most foreigners can’t take advantage of the rebate system because of language barriers and the fact that it’s not exactly a well-publicized rule. So here are some tips and phrases that will help you retrieve half of your ticket price the next time you find yourself running an hour and a half late (or more) for the day’s activities.
1. First, make sure that you are indeed late. The EuroStar can reach speeds up to 300 kmh (186 mph) and will at times go that fast to make up some time. To paraphrase a disgruntled passenger with a fidgety baby on his lap after sitting immobile on the tracks for two and a half hours: “Porco Dio! Now they’re moving, the misers are going to speed up and get us into the station 89 minutes late to avoid a payout!” So check the clock just to make sure.
2. Once you’ve ascertained that you are indeed at least 90 minutes late, head to the help desk quickly because I guarantee you that the majority of the train will be trying to beat you there, and Italians aren’t exactly famous for their ability to form a neat and orderly line. If you’re not sure where to go simply follow the crowd of fast moving people gesticulating wildly in anger. If you’re still not sure find a train station official in uniform and ask “Dov’e la officina d’assistenza?” (Where is the help office?”).
3. At the help desk ask for a rebate form, in Italian you’d say “Vorrei un modulo di rimborso.” If the person asks why, just shrug your shoulders and look as blasé as possible. This communicates to the receiver ‘Hey man, quit breaking my balls’ and is universally accepted as a valid response to the majority of inquisitive statements.
4. Once you’ve got the form you can fill it out immediately and hand it back to the help desk or you can do it later and send it to the address indicated on the form from your home country.
Because TrenItalia has been very much bureaucratized don’t hold your breath while you wait for the rebate to reach you. A friend sent his form out from the U.S. in August of 2006 and didn’t receive a check (in US dollars) until June 2007. No points for efficiency but all you need is a little patience (as in most other areas of life in Italy) and you will eventually get your rebate.
Hope you find this helpful for your future TrenItalia trips!
~Alexandra
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