When traveling in a new city I find my biggest temptation and most guilty pleasure is the use of taxis. It’s a temptation because it’s the fastest and easiest way to get to where you’re going without the possibility of getting lost, and it’s a guilty pleasure because with every taxi ride I’m spending money that could otherwise be better spent on such necessities like food, drink and housing.
But mastering the use of the public transportation system in a foreign city can be a daunting task for even the most seasoned world travelers, so here I’ve written down a few insider tips for you to use on your first adventures in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
1. Coins are as precious as gold (almost literally)
A few years ago people started noticing that coins were becoming harder and harder to come by. No one knew why but it was almost impossible to break a 2 peso bill; bad news in a city of 10 million, of which the vast majority use the bus system, because the buses are equipped with machines that accept only coins. Before long there was a full-fledged coin crisis going on. People started lining up at the bus stations to change a 100-peso bill into 100 pesos of coins, and for this handy service the bus companies took a healthy commission. Realizing the lucrative business they had stumbled upon the bus companies began hoarding their coins, effectively removing them from the economy and perpetuating the crisis further. This practice has since been discovered by the appropriate authorities and they were forced to give it up, however the damage has been done because now there is a culture of coin-hoarding pervasive throughout the population. Furthermore, the devaluation of the currency has worsened the proliferation of hoarders in that the actual value of the metal of the coin is worth more than the denomination printed on it. So in short and in the words of a native Portena, “Hold onto your coins and never let them go!”
2. Don’t be afraid of the bus
Many people find it difficult to give up on a subway system because you always know exactly what the next stop is and where you are and when to get off, but if the subway system in Buenos Aires seems poorly planned to you, that’s because it is. With four lines traversing the city from east to west, meeting up in the east at one north-south line, it leaves a lot of in-between areas that require a lot of walking. Save yourself the grief and pick up a ‘Guia T’ for 4 pesos at a magazine stand. This is the Yellow Pages of bus lines and contains gridded maps of the entire city with a cross-reference for every bus that runs through each grid. With more than 100 bus lines this may seem a little overwhelming at first but remember, your legs will thank you for putting aside the time to figure it out.
Also, after 10:30 pm on weeknights, and earlier on weekends, the subway shuts down, so sooner or later you’re going to have to get on a bus anyway.
3. Walk the walk, talk the talk
If you’re used to clearly marked bus stops with thoughtful overhangs for rainy days then this may come as a sorry surprise to you, but in Buenos Aires such luxuries are not so common. Most times the bus stop is a number tacked up on a tree amongst a line of trees, so you need to stay sharp and keep on the lookout because the bus drivers are ruthless men with an agenda. Unless your feet are firmly planted on the ground designated as ‘the bus stop’ then he will happily pass you by as if he wasn’t even aware of your existence. But that’s not all, once you’ve determined where you need to wait you must hail the bus as soon as it comes into view, as you would with a taxi. This is because the bus drivers don’t want to take the time to stop unless they know for sure that someone is getting on. They get a coffee break at the end of each line and these unnecessary pauses really cut into their ‘me-time’.
Once you’ve accomplished the feat of getting on the bus you have to say the name of the street you wish to get off at. He’ll punch a couple of buttons on his dashboard and the trick is to steal a glance at its screen to see how much you need to feed into the ticket machine. If you’re not sure of the name of the street you need, or worse, you don’t speak Spanish and all of a sudden the bus driver starts asking you questions, just say ‘Uno, diez’ (one, ten) which is the typical price of most bus rides. Then take your ticket, grab a seat and give yourself a pat on the back.
So now that you’ve read these insider tips you should consider yourself a well-informed public transportation user in the city of Buenos Aires. So take that money you save on taxis and blow it on something worthwhile, like a vat of dulce de leche ice cream (the national delicacy).
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